Recherche Bay is in every way the end of the road - a quiet, idyllic bay in the far south of Tasmania beyond the Huon Valley. There are three small settlements on Recherche Bay - Catamaran, Recherche Bay and Cockle Creek. These are the most southern communities in Australia. A signpost at Cockle Creek marks the most southerly point in Australia accessible by motor vehicle. The southern tip of Tasmania, Australia's southern extremity, which marks the beginning of the South West Walk, is just an hour's walk away.


Recherche Bay settlement

Where is it?: 80 km south of Southport.

The bay was the first landing place of French explorer Bruny D'Entrecasteaux who came ashore here for water and stayed for a number of weeks in 1792 to rest his crew and complete maintenance on his ships. Coal found on North Point by D Entrecasteaux was mined by a team of 43 convicts from 1841 to 1848. Mining was abandoned because of seepage in its two shafts due to the mine being so close to sea level.

During the early colonial days, some thirty years after D'Entrecasteaux's visit, the bay became a centre for whaling.

It was also at Recherche Bay that the last iron barque to sail Australia's shores, the James Craig, now restored and on display in Sydney, NSW, was scuttled at her moorings in 1932. The ship was abandoned on a mooring on the western shore (where the main road is located) just into the top half of the kidney and was left abandoned until 1972.

Captain William Fisher, born in Hobart in 1813, was the son of an emancipated convict. He soon acquired the brig Calypso (157 tons) & pursued whaling and other interests, not always within the law. An 1869 news report claimed he had 12,000 antiscorbutic cabbages growing. He is remembered by Fisher‘s Point at the southern end of Recherche Bay (where the road ends) marked by a life sized bronze whale sculpture nearby.

Visit of Bruny D'Entrcasteaux

In the autumn of 1792 a pair of storm-battered French ships, their crews weather beaten and tired, gratefully dropped anchor in waters off Tasmania's south-east coast. The ships were Recherche, under command of expedition leader, Rear Admiral Bruni D'Entrecasteaux, and Esperance, under Commander Huon de Kermadec. The peaceful waterway was later named D'Entrecasteaux Channel and the kidney-shaped bay they chose for their rest and repair became known as Recherche Bay. D'Entrecasteaux's was a high profile dual-purpose expedition. His mission was to search for the lost maritime hero, La Perouse, but also to undertake top-level scientific research including astronomy and research into the Earth's geomagnetic field.

Bruni d'Entrecasteaux was fortunate in having good officers and scientists, most importantly from the exploration point-of-view the expedition's first hydrographical engineer, C.F Beautemps-Beaupre, who is now regarded as the father of modern French hydrography. The work this officer did in the field was excellent, and his charts, when published in France as an Atlas du Voyage de Bruny-Dentrecasteaux (1807) were very detailed. The atlas contains 39 charts, of which those of Van Diemen's Land were the most detailed; they remained the source of the English charts of the area for many years.

Beautemps-Beaupre, while surveying the coasts with Lieutenant Cretin, entered Adventure Bay, which had been discovered by Tobias Furneaux in 1773, and found it was on an island, separated from the mainland by a fine navigable channel. On 16 May, d'Entrecasteaux commenced to sail the ships through the channel, and this was accomplished by the 28th. Port Esperance, the Huon River, and other features were discovered, named, and charted, the admiral's names being given to the channel (D'Entrecasteaux Channel) and the large island (Bruny Island) separated by it from the mainland.



Upon their first arrival here on 21st April 1792, Labillardiere had movingly recorded his first impressions of Tasmania's natural grandeur: "We were filled with admiration," he wrote, "at the sight of these ancient forests, in which the sound of an axe had never been heard." Over the next 28 days, the Frenchmen engaged in repairs, scientific work, mapping, botanical collection and gardening. The botanists Labillardire, Riche and Ventenat busily collected, catalogued and preserved hundreds of hitherto unknown flora and fauna including the Eucalyptus Globulus, Tasmanian Blue gum which later on became the state emblem.

Rossel set up an observatory on what is now Bennett’s Point and discovered Geo-magnetism of great significance to navigational science, an event commemorated by the unveiling of a plaque on the site by the CSIRO during a seminar held in Hobart in 1992. The observatory site associated with Rossel’s 1792 geomagnetic measurement at Recherche Bay is the site where the first deliberate scientific experiment on Australian soil was undertaken, and because the measurement conducted at the site was of international scientific significance as the most critical of a series of measurements proving that geomagnetism varied with latitude. The part of the place associated with these achievements is the observatory site and any associated archaeological remains relating to the French activities at the site.

Felix Delahaie, as the gardener had been issued seeds to plant in the New World with view to enlighten and improve the eating habits of the native people. He dug a plot of nine metres by four and planted celery, onions, cress, chervil and potatoes. This first garden in Tasmania was planted just north of where the ships were anchored and was last sited by Lady Jane Franklin in the 1840's. During the expedition's stay another event may have occurred. The steward on board the Recherche, Louis Girardin, was a small quiet man who kept to himself and had the unusual privilege on sleeping alone in the stewards cabin. This is significant because Louis was actually a woman.

Marie-Louise-Victoire Girardin was born in 1754 in Versailles daughter of a court official. Married and widowed in her twenties she had a child out of wedlock to a faithless lover and to escape her Father's wrath donned men's clothing and fled to Brest. With the aid of Captain de Kermadec's sister who was a family friend and certainly with the knowledge of the Captain and probably Admiral d'Entrecasteaux she was given a position on a French naval vessel. When a mutiny broke out on board she was transferred to the Recherche. Most people on board did not know her true identity although some suspected. One of the pilots tormented her about her lack of beard and effeminate demeanor and she was driven to challenge him to a duel. There is a very strong possibility that this event took place near the area where the ships were anchored.



After leaving Recherche Bay, the expedition continued to search for La Perouse but he was never found. Like La Perouse, D'Entrecasteaux and his ships never ever returned to France. But return to Recherche Bay they did. On 22nd January 1793, the two great ships once again dropped anchor on the "very good bottom" of this calm bay. "It is difficult to express the sensations we felt," wrote the ship's botanist, Jacques Labillardiere, "at finding ourselves at length sheltered in this solitary harbour at the extremity of the globe, after having been so long driven to and fro in the ocean by the violence of the storms."

The visitors spent a period of five weeks in that area, watering the ships, refreshing the crews and carrying out more explorations into both natural history and geography. During the 24 days spent moored in the harbour, 200 men were set to work as ships and shore became a hive of activity. It was a welcome break from shipboard routine, although a busy one as most of the crews worked ashore. Beautemps-Beaupre, in company with other officers, surveyed the northern extensions to Storm Bay - the western extension was found to be a mouth of a river and received the name Riviere du Nord - it was renamed the Derwent River a few months later by the next visitor to this area, Captain John Hayes in the Duke of Clarence and the Duchess.

Like Labillardiere, D’Entrecasteaux was quite taken by the locality: ‘With every step, one encounters the beauties of unspoilt nature... trees reaching a very great height … are devoid of branches along the trunk, but crowned with an everlasting green foliage. Some of these trees seem as ancient as the world’. Matthew Flinders would later pay him an unreserved compliment, when he praised the discovery of this harbour as ‘the most important discovery which has been made in [Tasmania] from the time of Tasman’.

Shortly after their arrival a gunner from the Esprance died of tuberculosis and was buried ashore. The exact location of his grave is not known, but this was the first European grave on Tasmania.

On 8th February 1793 the botanists and their assistants were working near Southport Lagoon when they noticed the approach of a large group of natives. Appearing to be peaceful the Frenchmen laid down their weapons and approached the group of about 40 men, women and children. Over the next while a number of items were exchange and a good humoured rapport was established between the two groups. Labillardire noticed that the only item of covering worn by the natives belonged to a young woman. Coveting it he offered her a pair of trousers in its stead. Shyly she fled but was brought back by her laughing companions. In an effort to show the young woman how the trousers were worn the botanist, with all the decorum he could muster, helped her to don them while she rested both hands on his shoulders.

Over the next few days several friendly meetings were had between the Europeans. The highlight of the meetings was a major al fresco type picnic held at the southern end of Black Swan Lagoon involving over 40 aborigines and as many Frenchmen. The native people were friendly, generous, uninhibited, sociable, unguarded and engaging. They allowed Labillardire's assistants to measure their body parts, for example. The women allowed the Frenchmen to play with their babies. The natives and visitors held spear throwing contests and running races. In the meantime some of the sailors had been sent ashore for their compulsory daily swim. Many were naked. The aborigines noted that all were men. Where were the women? In this uninhibited atmosphere, some of the aborigines assuming that the clothed Frenchmen must be women and began to conduct examinations. Songs were sung by both parties and dances were joined. The French worked on a large vocabulary and sketched the natives.

On 13th February 1793, the ships sailed out of Recherche Bay and made their way north charting new areas as they went. Over the next few months the expedition passed near to the Santa Cruz Islands little knowing that was the site of wrecked ships of La Prouse.

D'Entrecasteaux and de Kermadec died within weeks of each other and by the time the expedition staggered into the Dutch colony of Batavia most of the Frenchmen were ill with scurvy and dysentery and the ships were in a state of disrepair. Upon their arrival in the Dutch colony they found that France was now at war with Holland and in a series of negotiations it was deemed necessary to sell the ships to pay for supplies. The Republicans amongst them were imprisoned. Over the next few years the members of the expedition that survived the tropical diseases or chose to make their homes elsewhere eventually made their way back to France. Several of them published their journals and Labillardire published his botanical discoveries and an atlas. Although, to a great extent, the discoveries of the D'Entrecasteaux Expedition have been forgotten elsewhere, in southern Tasmania the names of d'Entrecasteaux, Huon de Kermadec, Recherche, Esperance, Ventenat, Labillardire Riche and Rossel are part of the area's topographical and botanical world.

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Cockle Creek

Cross over Catamaran River and Cockle Creek Road continues through the tiny settlement of Cataman to Cockle Creek. After passing Bruni D'Entrecasteaux's watering place historic site the road crosses Cockle Creek, then loops around a small bay and stops at Bottoms Green Campsite. A sign announces that you have reached "The End of The Road" - you are now standing in Australia's most southern street and there is no further point south of here in Australia that can be reached by road. Visitors to Cockle Creek must return by the way they came - along Cockle Creek Road and Huon Hwy to Hobart via Geeveston and Huonville.



During the early colonial days, Recherche Bay became a centre for whaling, and Cockle Creek a campsite for whalers during their annual stay in the area. Their visit is recalled in the Whale Sculpture on a walking path beyond Bottoms Green Campsite. From the big bronze whale sculpture, continue along the track and you will reach the Fishers Point Navigation Light and Pilot Station ruins. The pilot station was set up on Fisher's Point, the southern headland to Recherche Bay, in 1843, but was abandoned by 1851. The trail is best done at low tide, as it follows beaches and rocky coastline (4 km / 2 hours return).



You can extend the walk by continuing on from Fishers Point, heading south along the coast of Pancake Bay. Its a very picturesque by rocky shoreline, requiring some rock hopping and scrambling before reaching the beach on Pebbly Bight.



Bottoms Green Campsite is the starting point for walks to South East Cape and South West Cape walks, and the South Coast Track, a 7 day walk along some of the wildest, most isolated coastline in Australia. Beyond where the bridge crosses Cockle Creek, a track continues south. Though fairly rough it can be negotiated by 2 wheel drive vehicles. If driving between dusk and dawn, please be aware that you are sharing the road with wildlife.

The 14.4 hectare "George III" historic site is the site of a memorial to the convict ship George III which was wrecked on nearby rocks on its way to Port Arthur in 1835 with the loss of 133 lives. The memorial was erected on this site in 1839. On the evening of 12 March 1835 the George III, a convict transportation vessel, enroute from Great Britain to the colony, struck a reef directly offshore from the conservation area. The ship quickly began to break up. Convicts were confined to the hold at gunpoint until the ship’s longboat was launched and taking its first load of occupants to the safety of the nearby shore.

The resultant loss of life from this shipwreck means it still stands as Tasmania’s third worst maritime accident. None of the ship’s officers lost their lives, nor any soldiers. However 128 convicts, three children, the wife of a soldier and two crew members were drowned. In 1839 a monument, in the form of an inscribed tomb, was placed on Southport Bluff to record the event. The monument still stands and its existence is the chief reason for the proclamation of the surrounding historic site. Southport Bluff, where the George III Historic Site and monument are located, is the only known locality for the endangered Tasmanian endemic heath species,Epacris stuartii

South Coast Track

The remote South Coast Track is a challenging walk for experienced, well-prepared hikers only (85 km / 7 days). The track runs between Melaleuca and Cockle Creek, so walkers must either fly, sail or walk in and out. Along the way, spend some time enjoying the remote beaches. At Melaleuca, the Needwonnee Walk (1.2 km) weaves through the moorland, forest, and edge of the lagoon. This living, changing experience features sculptural installations interpreting some of the stories of the Needwonnee people.

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South Cape Bay Track

The rugged South Cape Bay Track (15 km / 4 hours return) departs from Cockle Creek. The track is the eastern end of the bucket-list South Coast Track to Port Davey, and offers a captivating look at the unspoiled southern coastline. Majestic Lion Rock is a highlight, as well as the wild, windswept bay itself with its impressive cliffs and powerful ocean swells.

Walking Track Notes

Pedra Branca

Pedra Branca is a 2.5 ha rock or small island about 26 km south-south-east of South East Cape. It is known for its inaccessibility, rich marine wildlife, wet and windy weather, interesting geology and large waves. It is part of the Southwest National Park, and thus in the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Site. An erosional remnant of the Tasmanian mainland, Pedra Branca is approximately 270 metres long, 100 metres wide, and 60 metres high. This is small enough to provide an example of an outcrop that lies on the border between being a rock or islet and an island.



The island rises abruptly from the ocean and is virtually devoid of vegetation. Many seabirds nest and roost on the island, covering the rocks with guano. Rare phosphate minerals are found on Pedra Branca. These minerals occur as cavity fills and cement in sandstone and dolerite rock, and also in phosphate flowstone. The former probably formed as a result of interaction between the seabird guano and the bedrock. The minerals are considered to be outstanding nationally. The island also has outstanding examples of two geomorphological features providing information on the last glacial period: cemented breccia cones and a well-developed benched shore platform.



Pedra Branca is home to a big wave surf break at a reef approximately 40 km offshore. Marty Paradisis was the first person to surf it. later, In 2008 Ross Clarke-Jones and Tom Carroll joined local surfers Marti Paradisis and brothers James and Tyler Hollmer-Cross to shoot a story about it which was featured on 60 Minutes. In January 2016, a surfer, James Hollmer-Cross, was wiped out by a wave, broke his leg in two places, perforated an ear drum, tore a knee ligament and suffered a compression fracture in his shin bone.