Ulverstone is a substantial regional centre in a centralised location between the north-west coast's two cities, Burnie and Devonport. Log spiltters worked the area in the area in the 1840s, supplying the newly founded Melbourne with the timber it required for building. As the timber in the area was cleared, attention turned to the rich volcanic soil. Farmers moved in and potatoes, beef and dairy industries were established.

Ulverstone is 21 km west of Devonport, 18 km east of Penguin, 28 km east of Burnie, 117 km north west of Launceston.



Ulverstone Visitor Information Centre
13 Alexandra Road, Ulverstone
Phone (03) 6425 2839.
Open daily - 9am to 5pm (closed Christmas Day, Good Friday and Anzac Day), Winter weekends 10am to 4pm



I first came to Ulverstone as a boy with my family back in 1960 when we came over from Melbourne for a week's holiday. We were based in Ldaunceston and took a number of coach tours out into the surrouning area. I don't remember much of what we saw, but one I do recall is the Ulverstone's Shrine of Remembrance that stands at the top of the main street. The monument had its beginnings in 1946 when the citizens of Ulverstone agreed to build a clock tower as a memorial to those who fell in the 1939-1945 war. The result was the iconic memorial we see today.

Completed in January 1954, it is set on a blue base, representing the sea, and on this is a map of Tasmania. The three columns rising from the map reprsent the three services - the AIF, RAAF, and RAAF. Each column represents a book and its squares of glass represent the pages where the names of the fallen are inscribed. The series of links connecting the columns represent the ties of unity between the services. At the top of the structure is a torch of remembrance, while the clocks beneath it represent time and eternity. Suspended under the block is a laurel wreath with a rising sun at its centre, looking down on the name inscribed in the columns.

Ulverstone ZigZag Gardens

One normally associates the word 'zigzag' with a railway - in Ulverstone it's the name of a delightful walkway that winds its way to a high point overlooking Ulverstone. Not only does it afford panoramic view of Ulverstone and Bass Strait, it comes with the added bonus of beautiful, award-winning gardens cut into the hillside through which the walkway zigzags. The base of the walkway starts in Maud Street, or for a less strenuous alternative, drive to the lookout via Upper Maud Street.



21 Maskells Road, Ulverstone is the place to ride a miniature railway in Tasmania, with three separate track gauges and three separate track layouts. Located 2km east of Ulverstone, it operates on the first and third Sunday of the month from 10.30am to 3pm. Train Rides are $3 per person or $10 per Family. Phone (03) 6428 3569 or 0409 516 290.

Leven River Cruise

Enjoy and relax in the natural scenic sanctuary of the Leven River on a river cruise. Cruises range from 1 hr on the Leven River Bay or 2 hrs along the tidal Leven River. Enjoy a 3 – 4 hr picnic cruise or take the 5 hr tour where you can relax in an amazing historic sanctuary of eucalyptus, blackwood, Antarctica dicksonia and wildlife, whilst you enjoy a 3 course meal. Cruises depart from public pontoon, Tasma Parade, Ulverstone. Bookings essential. Phone 0400 130 258.

Beachside

The area along Beach Boad around the end of Victoria Street is the centre of beachside receational activities in Ulverstone. There is the beach, of course, a great cafe for breakfast or lunch, behind which is Pedal Buggies Tasmania, where you can hire Pedal Buggies. Easy to ride, they come in single person and family varieties, with baby seats and trailers that can be added. Open weekends all year round (subject to weather), school holidays and most public holidays from 10am to 4.30pm or by appointment. Please phone to confirm availability. Phone 0437 242 535.



Next to the cafe is the Ulverstone Waterside, a 60 metre fibreglass chute ending in a warm pool. Open during the summer school holidays. Phhone (03) 6425 6252. Across the road in Fairway Park there is a skate park. On the eastern side of Victoria Street is Bicentennial Park, home to the Ulverstone Outdoor Entertainment Centre and Otto's Grotto, a picnic ground. Keep following the river and you'll end up at the Gnomon Pavillion Wharf Precinct, home to the Cradle Coast Farmers Market. Anzac Park, beyond the Hobbs Parade bridge across the River Leven, has gardens bordering the river, providing picnic and barbecue areas, walking paths and children’s play areas.

Buttons Beach

The main ocean beach at Ulverstone, Buttons Beach (above) is a 2.7 km long north-facing ribbon of clean sand, bordered by the 1 km long training wall of the River Leven in the west and the low rocks of The Fish Pond in the east. The Ulverstone Surf Life Saving Club is located toward the centre of the beach. The small Buttons Creek drains out across the centre of the beach.

Picnic Point and Buttons beaches are moderately safe for swimming under normal low wave conditions, apart from near the exposed and submerged rocks. During higher waves rips can also form in the low tide surf zone and around the rocks. The safest swimming is in the patrolled area in front of the surf club, otherwise at mid to high tide away from the rocks.

Picnic Point Beach

Picnic Point Beach (above) commences immediately east of Goat Island and extends east for 1.8 km to the point. It is initially a cobble high tide beach, containing rock outcrops and intertidal rock flats. As it extends to the east the cobbles are replaced by a narrow high tide sand beach fronted by a mixture of rock flats and a 100 m wide low tide terrace. It is backed by a narrow reserve then the road, with houses increasing to the east. Waves average less than 1 metre and spill across the low gradient beach and flats.

Annual Events

Ulverstone Rodeo: Held on the last Saturday in January. Located at Batten Park, Ulverstone, this popular rodeo starts with the juniors at 4pm, followed by all the action of the main event from 7pm to 11pm. Includes professional women’s barrel race, breakaway roping, saddle and bareback bronco riding, steer wrestling and team roping. Ph. 0438 681 453

Festival In The Park: Held on the last Sunday in February, and located at Anzac Park, Ulverstone, the festival runs from 10.30am to 4.30pm. Enjoy entertainment, water activities, live bands, good food, wine, local crafts and much more.

Arts On Fire: Held on the first weekend in June at the Ulverstone Civic Centre, Patrick Street, Ulverstone, ‘Arts on Fire’ is a showcase of the wealth of artistic talent along the coast. The program is an interesting and eclectic mix of artistic activities, aiming to showcase many artistic pursuits including static displays of visual and fine arts, crafts, photography, sculpture and performing arts with a mix of media to ensure there is something for everyone, and maintaining interest throughout the day.



Bear and Miniatures Extravaganza: Held on the last weekend in July. Located at the Ulverstone Rowing Club, Kings Parade and open from 10am to 4pm. Features dolls of all shapes and sizes, toys, bears, miniatures, old lace, wooden toys, doll-houses and much more. Contact the Doll Collectors Club of Tasmania Inc. (03) 6425 2581 or (03) 6425 5050



Tastrofest - Tasmania's Astronomy Festival: Tasmania has some of the cleanest and clearest skies in the world. Spanning the 40th to the 44th parallel, Tasmania has the unique gift of being an excellent location for Aurora Australis spotting for most of the year. Those roaring 40s winds also push the clouds across pretty efficiently and can enable a great night viewing when least expecting it. Tastrofest's mission is to teach everyone, no matter what their background or level of knowledge, how to enjoy the night sky. We will gather once a year and revel in the staggering complexity of the universe and be in awe of its beauty. Held in August. Located in Schweppes Arena, Ulverstone Sports & Leisure Centre, Flora Street, Ulverstone.

Cradle Coast Rotary Art Exhibition: Held mid-November. Located in the Gawler Room of the Civic Centre, Patrick Street, Ulverstone, this week-long exhibition is open for public viewing and sales from Saturday through to Sunday, 10am to 4.30pm. Contact Stephanie Templeton 0417 507 724, or email stetemp51@gmail.com



Ulverstone Show: Held on the Saturday of the November long weekend at the Showground, Flora Street, Ulverstone Show features livestock judging, dog competitions, horse jumping, home industries, animal nurseries, sideshows and food stalls. Contact the Ulverstone Show Society Secretary, PO Box 17, Ulverstone, email ulverstoneshow@bigpond.com or phone (03) 6425 1703 or mobile 0422 945 705

Ulverstone Christmas Parade and Carols By Candlelight: Held the third Saturday in December. Located at Reibey Street, Ulverstone, the festive evening commences with a parade of Christmas floats at 4.30pm and continues with Carols by Candlelight at the Outdoor Entertainment Centre, Sound Shell, Bicentennial Park, Dial Street, Ulverstone at 7.30pm. For more information on the Christmas Parade or for Carols by Candlelight email apexulverstone@hotmail.com





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Beyond Ulverstone

Coast Road: Ulverstone to Penguin

If you are travelling between Devonport and Burnie, it is worth taking the old Bass Highway which hugs the coast if you have the time and want to enjoy some very pretty coastal scenery. The road winds its way around the bays and headlands, so it is by no means a fast route, but the scenery and a chance to pass a train on a line that follows the road and the coast makes it worthwhile.



Between Penguin and Ulverstone are a group of small granite offshore islands known as The Three Sisters. Goat Island (above) to their east is accessible at low tide -but be very careful not to get stranded. The island is a beschcombers paradise - there are jagged edges, fiery lichen, unusual seaweed, muscles, a cave and a fishing pool that's big enough to swim in. Goat Island houses a breeding colony of little penguins.



The Three Sisters island group (above) has been identified as an Important Bird Area by BirdLife International because, with up to 400 breeding pairs, it supports over 1 percent of the world population of black-faced cormorants. Because landings are difficult owing to the lack of beaches and safe anchoring points they are little affected by human visitation and disturbance, although Australian fur seals haul-out on the lowest of them. Pacific gulls and sooty oystercatchers breed there every year in small numbers, and Caspian terns have nested there. White-bellied sea-eagles forage around the islands.



Nakaervis Reserve (qbove) runs along the shoreline opposite the Three Sisters island group. On the western side of the point there is a small beach, but to access it, one must cross the railway line. Though there are only a few trains travelling the line each day, care must still be taken doing this as the line is in regular use by freight trains.



The steep, narrow Claytons Beach is composed of cobbles and fronted by uniform cobble flats up to 100 metres wide. It is backed by drained grass-covered wetlands, the old railway line, with the highway 500 metres to the south and no direct public access. The Fish Pond, inside two recurved cobble spits that have converged on the point to partly enclose a shallow 100 metre wide embayment, is located to the east of Claytons Beach. A small stream drains out of the pond at its western end. No direct public access.

Braddons Lookout

9 km east via Bass Highway and Braddons Lookout Road

Braddons Lookout, located on the Upper Forth Road (enter from the Bass Highway on the eastern side of the Forth River Bridge) offers excellent views over both the coast and the hinterland. It is said that on a clear day it is possible to see Cradle Mountain to the south.



Braddons Lookout was named after Sir Edward Nicholas Coventry Braddon who, after a long career in the British civil service, arrived in Tasmania in 1878, entered state parliament in 1879 and was premier from 1894-99. The lookout stands on the site of Sir Edward Braddon's home. A secondary platform with a low fence improves the view for people in wheelchairs who may be unable to see over the stone wall that surrounds the main viewing platform. Eight plaques are dedicated to prominent local businesses, such as vegetable processing company Harvest Moon, while the others explore local history and historical figures such as Braddon himself.

Turners Beach

6.3 km east via Bass Highway

While Tasmania's north-west is famously known for the iconic Cradle Mountain and wilderness adventures, lesser known are its beaches, which are not only among the best in Tasmania, they rival some in states which have built their repulation on their ribbons of clean golden sand. Turners Beach and Leith are two localities on the shores of Bass Strait that are blessed with superb beaches, serene pieces of beach paradise that are untouched by the masses. Turners Beach and Leith sit on either side of the mouth of the River Forth where it empties into Bass Strait. The beaches are big and wide, with plenty of room for young travellers to stretch their legs and run off some energy. According to the local fishermen, the salmon and mullet run thick and fast in the river mouth of the Forth.

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Turners Beach Berry Patch

Tasmania is famous for its berries, and if you like the thought of picking your own, Turners Beach Berry Patch is a place where you can do this. If you'd rather not pick your owm, there are pre-picked raspberries and strawberries available. Gluten-free options available. The Berry Patch also has a cafe serving zesty berry ice-cream or freshly ground coffee, or you can relax over lunch, morning and afternoon teas, or enjoy a wood fired pizza as we did. Gluten-free options available and you also have an option of indoor and outdoor dining. Open daily from 9am to 5pm, winter opening hours from 10am to 4pm (Closed public holidays and during June). Phone (03) 6428 3967, 0400 173 737.

Forth

9.7 km south east via Bass Highway and Forth Road

When it comes to small towns in Tasmania, Forth definitely ranks as one of the most scenic, as well as one of the oldest. Nestled on the banks of River Forth, it is only a 13 kilometre drive from the city of Devonport. Being just 'up the road' from Devonport makes it a great place to kick off your exploration of the state if you are arriving by the Spirit of Tasmania.

Previously known as Hamilton-on-Forth, the village predates the larger settlement of Devonport. James Fenton, a young man of Irish descent came to the Forth estuary in 1839 in search of arable land. Assisted by his hired male companion, he erected the first European edifice in the district, and in 1840 returned to take up permanent settlement.

Forth to Sprent Regional Drive

38 km round trip from and back to Ulverstone

As you enter Forth from Turners Beach, there is a road off to the right signposted to Kindred, a little village about seven kilometres away. Take this road and you'll find yourself on a delightful drive through lush farmlands and rolling hills. Before too long you will arrive at Kindred which, like many regional villages, could best be described as a string of farms scattered on either side of a few buildings that form the nucleus of the community.

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Gunns Plains Caves

Gunns Plains

6.3 km south west via Preston Road

Gunns Plains is a rich fertile area dotted with dairy farms, potato growing, poppy growing and beef cattle. In days gone by vegetables were grown here and it was also one of the three major hop producing regions in Tasmania. The Leven River winds slowly through its pastures that support a variety of grazing stock. Agricultural endeavours are also very successful, benefiting from rich red volcanic soil. The town was named after botanist Ronald Campbell Gunn, who visited the valley in 1860. Gunns Plains Caves are in the Gunns Plains State Reserve. The Reserve overlooks the beautiful Leven Valley farmland and has toilets, a wood barbecue and a shelter hut. A shop at Gunns Plains sells food and petrol.

Being approximately 30 kilometres south of Ulverstone in northwest Tasmania, Gunns Plains is easily accessible and a relatively short drive from both Burnie and Devonport. It is an ideal half day destination if you are short of time, however there is plenty to do if you devote a full day or more to explore the area. Camping, accommodation and refreshments are also available nearby.

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Wilmot

31.6 km south via Castra Road

Wilmot is one of those kind of places where the journey getting there is as much fun as being there. The big drawcard for me was always the original Coles family store, from which came "GJ", the son George who decided to move to the mainland and Melbourne, where he figured he had more chance to make a million that if he stayed in the backblocks of North West Tasmania. It was a move that paid off handsomely - his venture grew into the gigantic Coles retail empire we see today. Sadly, the original Coles store at Wilmot burnt down some years ago.



Whichever way you come up to Wilmot from the coast - and you have a choice of two - you are in for a visual treat. Follow the road from Wilmot to Devonport travel up through the aptly named 'Valley of the Views', which is also known as the Wilmot Novelty Letterbox Trail. Not only will you be treated to some great scenery, you'll find the road is lined with the most interesting and unique array of letterboxes you are ever likely to see. Someone started the trend a few decades ago, it caught on and now everyone has one! Now that's community spirit for you. Also look out for the graphic portrayal of Wilmot's history by local artists and school children on telegraph poles along the road.

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Gawler

3.3 km south via Lovett Street

The agricultural district of Gawler is situated south of Ulverstone, its boundary being reached in afew short kilometres. The Gawler area was explored by surveyor Nathaniel Kentish in the early 1840s, who named the river after the second Governor of South Australia, Lieutenant-Colonel George Gawler. This name was later given to the whole district.

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North Motton

9.1 km south west via Preston Road

The village of North Motton in the dairy farming district on the Preston Road is about 10 kilometres south of Ulverstone. Land in the area was occupied by William Motton in 1854, after whom the area is named. In 1865 a handful of Primitive Methodist families settled in the North Motton district including Nathan and Sarah Brothers, John and Ann Eagle, Isaac Brett and the Revell family. North Motton was one of four locations in the greater Ulverstone region where the Primitive Methodist migrants from Scotland settled and built churches; with other churches built at Gravel Hill, Norfolk Creek and Penguin. In 1877 the church was used by the Department of Education for a day school and a Sunday school was also established around this time.

The foundation stones for the new building were laid in December 1902 and the occasion was reported by The North West Post: “Methodism and North Motton have grown up together, the pioneers of this rising and prosperous district having been active adherents of that section of the Christian Church. The rapid growth and expansion of that part of West Devon has caused the old Methodist Church to become uncomfortably small for the ordinary services, and it was decided to build a much larger one on the land adjoining, at an estimated cost of £400. The contract for the erection of the building was let some time ago to Mr Manser for £385, and the work has been pushed on as rapidly as possible”.

Nothing of the church remains apart from a wall which stood in front of the church and the cemetery which contains the headstones of many of the early members of the church. The cemetery also has a headstone in remembrance of Chrissie Venn, a 13-year-old girl whose unsolved murder in 1921 was a sensation at the time. Her ghost is claimed to haunt the area of her murder.

Castra Road Scenic Drive

Castra Road (State Route B15) starts at Ulverstone and winds its way south through picturesque hills and farmland on its way to Nietta, a tiny village located about 44 kilometres south-west of the town of Devonport. Nietta is literally the end of the road. If approached from Devonport via Forth, Castra Road is joined at the village of Sprent. On the way you'll pass some of the prettiest dairy farming country you are ever likely to see.

It has been said of the British that their home is their castle, which might explain the use of the word Castra by the early European settlers for the area they now called home in Tasmania. In the Roman Republic and the Roman Empire, the Latin word castrum (plural castra) was a building, or plot of land, used as a fortified military camp. In English, the terms Roman fort, Roman camp and Roman fortress are commonly used for castrum.

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Silver Falls

Castra Falls Circuit

The Castra Falls Circuit near Upper Castra gives access to for waterfalls; Castra Falls, Silver Falls, Step Falls, and Secret Place. It is a grade 4 return hike which should take you approximately 2.5hrs to complete. Castra Falls is the second waterfall on the Castra Circuit. The track is commenced as an easy to moderate walk, progressively becoming more difficult the further you walk. It commences a few kilometres down Gaunts Road which is found on the way to Leven Canyon from Ulverstone.



Kaydale Lodge Gardens

Nietta

32 km south via Castra Road

Nietta is a rural community situated approximately 30km south of Ulverstone. The Wilmot River forms most of the eastern boundary, and the River Leven forms much of the western. The B15 route (Castra Road) enters from the north and terminates at Nietta village. The name was used for a Parish from 1886. Nietta is an Aboriginal word meaning “little brother”.

A visit to Kaydale Lodge Gardens at Nietta is worth including on a trip to the area if you enjoy and appreciate the labours of those blessed with a green thumb. This 2ha garden has been a family obsession for the Crowdens of Nietta since parents Kay and Robert started it in 1979 from a bare paddock around the house Robert built. Using stone from their fields, they built walls and archways while running the cattle and cropping farm, raising their two daughters and establishing a business offering accommodation and meals. A small entry fee applies.



Leven Canyon and Black Bluff from the Cruickshanks Lookout

Leven Canyon

41 km south via Castra Road

Leven Canyon is a little-known tourist destination in Tasmania but well worth seeing. To get there, continue through Nietta and follow the signs to Leven Caynon. The canyon is a 250 metre deep ravine that is part of a wildlife corridor from the coast to Cradle Mountain. The Leven River runs through 300-metre limestone cliffs carved through the Loongana Range, down to Bass Strait. The viewing platform at Cruickshanks Lookout offers spectacular views of Black Bluff, the canyon itself and the surrounding areas. Black Bluff, directly opposite Cruickshank Lookout, is the region's first peak each winter to have a covering of snow, due to its exposure to the prevailing westerlies.



The Cruickshanks Lookout viewing platform is only a short walk from the car park and only regular shoes are required. The walk passes through a stunning stand of rainforest, complete with giant eucalypts, colourful fungi furtive wildlife, tree ferns and moss on the rocks, tree stumps and fallen timbers beside the path. A second lookout, called edge, gives a different view of the canyon, and is reached on an optional loop walk. Between the lookouts there’s a steep set of stairs, which can be avoided if you return via the same track. The glade surrounding the car park is perfect for a picnic lunch - there are toilets, barbecue and picnic facilities with disabled access. Bring your own food and drink though, as the are no shops in the area - the last one you will have passed is the general store in Gawler.



For the more adventurous, the Forest Stairs Track leads from Loongana Road all the way down into the canyon itself, almost to water level, to a bridge across the raging waters of the Levin River. Leven Canyon is Tasmania's deepest limestone gulch, with challenging terrain, so this is not a walk for anyone with health issues. The path, though well marked and constructed, is steep and there are 697 steps to negotiate in both directions. Experienced walkers can continue on to Devild Elbow, a challenging walk that is an hour return from the footbridge. The Forest Stairs Track in particular is subject to severe weather conditions all year round, and the weather may change quickly. At times the track can be difficult to navigate, and when covered in snow it may be impassable.


Canyon floor

Enough water runs through the Canyon every day to satisfy the thirst of a major city. About 45,000 - 70,000 kilolitres of water flush through the Canyon daily, equivalent to water consumption for 350,000 people. Those who make it will be interested to know that the Canyon floor footbridge was made locally and components lifted in by helicopter. The Forest Stairs Track forms part of The Penguin Cradle Trail, a bush walking track developed by the North West Walking Club.